Restaurant: we tested the Palais-Royal in Paris

When Michelin unveiled its 2022 awards last February, no one expected the promotion of one to two stars for this restaurant nestled under the arcades of the Galerie de Valois, famous for its terrace facing the Palais-Royal garden. . Especially those, like us, who hadn’t been there for a while. Error repaired: our meal at the “Palais-Royal” upset us. From the appetizers you can guess the ambition: small cushions of potatoes puffed with runny egg yolk, tartlet with fresh herbs and yellow wine, Greek salad where the tomato is supported by the beetroot, and the pieces of feta with a famous sheep’s cheese ice cream… We understand that it will not be a question here of tarama to spread or moussaka to devour, but of an haute cuisine which pays homage, with delicacy and invention, to the country origin of the leader, Greece, and his childhood.

A stone’s throw from the French Theater is playing, in an elegant decor in keeping with the reputation of the Evok group (hotels “Brach”, “Nolinski”, “Sinner”…), a delicious comedy, with in the main roles the excellent Ahmad Houmani in the dining room, and the brilliant Philip Chronopoulos in the kitchen. This young chef who studied at Atelier Joël Robuchon and Alain Passard’s “Arpège” magnifies langoustine with broccolini and a touch of basil, scallops with green apple and sorrel, sole with white asparagus and saffron, suckling lamb with artichokes and wild oregano. A meat or a fish, a vegetable or a fruit, a herb or a spice: the winning algorithm. Each bite brings its share of sweetness and emotions.

It is difficult to understand the mechanics of pleasure, between the poetry of the place, the modernity of the service, the choice of wines (châteauneuf-du-pape Clos de l’Oratoire des Papes 2020 by Léonce Amouroux, condrieu Les Grandes Chaillées 2012 by Stéphane Montez) , the quality of the dishes… The desserts are worthy of the stages that precede them: strawberries with vanilla and elderberry, gourmet pastries with lemon, marigold and verbena… If the name was not already taken by an illustrious colleague, the restaurant could be called “ambrosia”, the delight of the Greek gods.

Palais-Royal restaurant: 110, Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris. Such. : 01 40 20 00 27. Tasting menu at €215. A la carte, count about as much.

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