“the heart of the kitchen is in the street”

Chef Thierry Marx is a guest of the 6th edition of the Lyon Street Food Festival (June 23-June 26) in the former Fagor Brandt factories. Lyon Capitale met him.

The two-starred Parisian chef Thierry Marx will be the big star of the 6th edition of the Lyon Street Food festival, which is being held in the former Fagor Brandt factories (Lyon 7th), from Thursday 23 to Sunday 26 June.

Head of News Brasserie Madame on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower, and at the helm of the Jules Verne (two stars in the Red Guide) one floor higher, Thierry Marx is also a rush.

Two stars for 5 euros

A fan of street food, in 2012 he set up Street Food en Mouvement, an association that aims to “building a bridge between food trades and quality street food”.

Present Thursday, June 23 from the opening of the Lyon Street Food Festival, at 6:00 p.m. and until its closing, at 12:45 a.m., Thierry Marx will unveil an exclusive street food recipe.

Maintenance with small onions.

Lyon Capitale: What does the concept of street food mean to you?

Thierry Marx: What annoys me is English anglicism. I prefer to talk about street food. It is popular cuisine in the noble sense of the term, ambulatory, pleasant to eat and of high quality. We can clearly see that the frame of a restaurant for lunch has been shattered. To be an alternative between the kings of the burger and the industrial kitchen to take away, we, the cooks, had to find a solution.

According to you, street food is a bulwark against industrialization?
Above all, yes, because we can clearly see that it is gaining more and more market share. Between the bagels, the fish je-ne-sais-quoi, if you scratch a little, behind, you can see that there is nothing artisanal. So there is a public health issue behind all of this. An industrial sandwich is on average 30 chemical additives. You throw in a soda, an ice cream and people get fat.

France is a country of paradoxes….
(…) We saw it well with the legislative elections (laughs).

On the one hand, she is attached to culinary traditions, local specialties and on the other she holds the world record for MacDonald’s…
We have clearly seen that the traditions for some were the adoration of ashes, had the connotation of a certain museophilic representation. Because there has been so much emphasis on tradition and terroir, the industry has taken it over and marketed it.

Positive point: France holds the world record for time spent at the table, ahead of Italy and Greece, with 2h13 devoted, each day, to breakfast, lunch and dinner. This shows that we take real pleasure in being together at the table.
Yes, except that Italy has not cut itself off from its rurality. France, on the other hand, has cut itself off from its rurality. And farmers even prefer the cafeteria of a supermarket rather than the local bistro.


“Lyon Street Food Festival is a political movement”


What attracted you to the concept of the Lyon Street Food Festival?
First, it is to find friends and those who, like me, advocate quality. Lyon Street Food Festival is a political movement: it talks about cuisine in the broadest sense of the term. We speak to everyone because from the price point of view, it is very accessible. It’s in the street that you can meet the provincial notary and the guy who works in the workshop. Street food is about social ties, proximity: the heart of the cuisine is in the street.

You say that “the history of the brewery is to brew people”. And the history of street food?
Street food is about understanding your time: you no longer spend an hour or two for lunch, you wander around, while wanting to eat good food. Street food takes us away from bistro cuisine which was, for some people, a bit expensive. It is necessary, I repeat, that the chefs mingle with street food so as not to leave it to the industry.

Read also:

Lyon Street Food Festival goes into overdrive for its 6th edition

Lyon Street Food Festival, kick off this Thursday, what is the program?

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